Dinner begins as the evening star rises

I · APÉRITIF

The kitchen answers a single question

There are twenty minutes after sunset when the sky turns its deepest blue and the first star appears. We stretch those twenty minutes into a whole night.

Tonight, what tastes closest to the sea? French at the bone, an Eastern coastline in the flesh — eight courses each night, rewritten by tide and market. Technique steps back from the light, so the ingredient can stand in it.